Day 11 – Part 2, Luther, Michigan

Free Soil, Michigan.

As a solo bicycle rider, I take the day as it comes. Pedaling out of Ludington, MI, after spending the night there was like any other day; surprises awaited discovering.

The ride to the hotel the night before was uneventful, but in the dark after disembarking from the S. S. Badger ferry ride across Lake Michigan. I have plenty of rear lights for the bike, but the headlamp is a smaller, less powerful version that I use when traveling. I don’t plan on doing much riding at night when away from home. In Sarasota, I have a light that would blind.

The names of places can be puzzling at times. I rode into Free Soil, Michigan. I can’t begin to imagine how that came to be. I suppose I could research it, but, like in college, I’ll leave that to the reader. The skies kept threatening to drown me, but so far, so good. I gambled that a quick lunch would allow me time to get to somewhere safe for the night. The forecast was for severe thunderstorms, but I was hungry.

I stopped at the Heidi Hof House and had a nice meal. As usual, a customer noticed the bicycle and was appalled that someone could actually ride that far, especially a senior citizen. We had a nice chat about it. He offered to buy me a beer, but I don’t like to drink alcohol while riding. Lunch went well and still no storm.

This area of Michigan, at least according to my Adventure Cycle Association maps, is devoid of anything looking like a hotel. I was certain that I would be camping tonight. As I came into the outskirts of Luther, MI, I rode down a side road to check on the Carrieville State Forest Campground. It was late afternoon, and other than a bunch of noisy dirt bikes riding the trails, the place was pretty empty. I attempted to sign up for site #4, but, since didn’t have the correct change for the drop box, I planned to ride into town, have an early evening meal, and get some change.

Luther was about three miles from the camp. I rode into town and looked to see what was open (This was Sunday of Labor Day weekend, most places would be closed). On the left side of the main drag there appeared to be two places, I think one was Loggers Landing, and the other was North Bar. The North Bar had a crowd gathered at the front door so I wasn’t hopeful about being able to get in if there was a long line.

I walked the bike up to the bar on the sidewalk and as I approached the crowd, I was greeted with by some very happy sounding people, and loud music coming from the bar. My mind raced, did I want to try and wait out the crowd or try to get something to eat?

I tied the bike to a pole and at once several folks gathered around with a bunch of questions. I answered what I could and then asked about how long the wait was to get in. They said there was no wait (they were mostly outside to have a smoke) and told me to head on in. Just then, a woman came out and peppered me with questions and explained that the North Bar was having their annual Customer Appreciation Day. The woman, Jen, was managing the festivities. The fact that I wasn’t a regular customer and it was my first time there didn’t matter in the least. I was treated as a long-lost friend and dragged in before I could protest.

Welcome to Customer Appreciation Day at the North Bar, Luther, Michigan.

In just a few sentences Jen managed to squeeze out my life’s history. She went up to the microphone and said something about having a minor celebrity in their midst, a fellow riding a bicycle coast-to-coast and then pointed at me. There was a big round of applause…I really had to like this crowd.

They were bringing just about everyone in the place to the stage area to sing – most of them solo. Surprisingly, many of them were really good singers. Most of the songs were country western and a few, quite humorous. There was free food and I sat there and ate to my fill. What a crowd.

I was terrified that they would ask me to sing, I don’t know a single word of any songs, it would have been a disaster. I wrote down the name of my book, Three Hundred Zeroes, on the back of my business card and caught Jen’s attention and went outside to explain to her that I’d like to give a copy to anyone that helps me out, and I had just had a free meal. I told her about the book and how it was dedicated to my brother Tom that was killed in action in Vietnam. The next thing I know, she drags me inside and hands me the microphone! I had warned her that I didn’t want to be a “downer” on such a lively party by telling my abbreviated story. She assured me I wouldn’t be a “downer” and that everyone there would be interested. She asked if I was doing the ride as a fundraiser for a cause and I replied, “no, just for my bucket list.”

It didn’t matter, she seemed to think that it was a fundraiser. Someone had just handed me $20, and I didn’t know what to say. I took the microphone and explained how my brother, Tom and I were going to hike the Appalachian Trail together when we finished our military duty, but it didn’t happen because he was killed in 1968. Further, I explained that I hiked the trail with his Purple Heart Medal and in spite of having to get off for three hundred days for a six-artery heart bypass surgery, I did go on to finish the whole 2200 (3540 km). Now I was doing this bike ride. I told them I’m not doing a fundraiser, but somebody had given me a twenty, and I would put it to good use for a veteran in my town.

Then to liven things up I told them that I had been riding across Wisconsin for over a week (lots of state rivalry in the midwest) and that in that entire time I had never seen anything like this. That brought a good laugh and applause. I didn’t want to drag it on, so thanked them and handed the microphone back. What a great crowd. Following that, a few more rushed up to me and handed me more cash, in all, $102.00. I promised to put it to good use when I get back to Florida, we have plenty of veterans there that can use the help.

It made me so proud to be an American, they didn’t care about where I was from, my politics, my religion, etc., all that mattered was a common bond with caring about others, in this case, veterans. Thank you, Luther, Michigan. I’ll report back after I get home.

Following all that, a woman named Cheryl approached me and offered a cabin room to stay in for the night. It was getting late and I was exhausted from a 60+ mile day. I said certainly. She had me follow her to the cabin and set me up there for the night, then she went back to the festivities.

Her two chihuahuas, Roco and Maxie (sp?)  were left with this stranger. I showered and hit the hay. Maxie never did warm up to me and sulked away, but Roco was scared of the approaching thunderstorm and quickly became my buddy, he wanted protection.

I went quickly to sleep about 20:00. I was exhausted and it had been one of the finest days ever on my bike ride. Thank you, Luther, MI.

PS: The next morning, Cheryl gave me two tomatoes from her garden. These are not the run-of-the-mill tomatoes one gets in the market, these are juicy, flavorful, wholesome creations. I treasured them all day. Later, I stopped at a Subway shop and picked up a few scoops of tuna fish and feasted on two delightful tomatoes.

Day 5,6 – Part 2, Medford, Wisconsin

At the rate I’m going, I think those in the buggy might make better time. By now I should be averaging about fifty miles (eighty km) a day. My goal is around sixty miles (100 km) a day once I get back in shape. Of course, the real problem has been the weather. It just has not been cooperative. I refuse to ride in lightning and it has been a constant on this ride thus-far.

  • Day 1: 54.50 Miles (87.7 km)
  • Day 2: 34.17 Miles (55.0 km)
  • Day 3: 57.27 Miles (92.2 km)
  • Day 4: 27.43 Miles (44.1 km)
  • Day 5: 49.17 Miles (79.1 km)

As I write this, I am in Medford, WI. I stayed at the Medford Inn last night. The hotel was alright, but it had zilch for WiFi. It had three “hotspots” for WiFi and they weren’t even tepid. I finally found that if I sat in the office, in a particular chair, I could get enough of a connection to make it work. As has been the case in my travels around this country, T-Mobile is non-existent here. They’re fine in metropolitan areas, but come up really short in rural America. If you plan on travel, do look into AT&T or Verizon, it is worth the extra cost.

 

I stopped in Gilman, WI on my way. It is a charming little town. I had some lunch at the Kountry Kettle and really enjoyed the “down home” cooking. I felt right at home and everyone made me feel welcome. These are the moments that make a trip such as this such a joy.

I stopped by the Gilman Veterans Memorial on the way out of town. I began to wonder that if we gathered up all the military hardware from around the country, we could outfit a pretty good army. I think that is an M60A1 tank, we have one something like it at home in Sarasota, Florida, too. Even though I am a veteran, I would rather see us spend more on schools and health care and less on hardware that ends up sitting.

At one time, many years ago, I was asked by a certain someone to go pick out some wallpaper for out bathroom. I found what I thought was perfect. It had little toilets on it. That ended my interior decorating days forever. In a bathroom along the way, I saw the perfect match to my choice (see above). What do you think?

I’ve decided to take an early “Zero day.” Hikers refer to a day off as a Zero-day because they are walking zero miles. The weather alert this morning was forecasting doom and gloom, so here I sit is a Boarders Hotel in Medford. At least the WiFi is great here. With all the rumbling and flashing going on outside I think I made a good decision.

I had a light lunch and a two-hour nap…life is good.

Day 4 – Part 2, Cornell, Wisconsin

 

The ride out from Bloomer, WI, started out gloomy and foreboding. There was a bit of sunshine for a bit, but it vanished early on. I kept an eye off to my right, watching the forming clouds.

My intention for the day was to ride to Medford, WI, about 65 miles (105 km) away. Terrain looked promising, no big hills to climb, with one exception. At the top of the hill, there was a route sign that cried out for a sign below it that says, “Top.” Eighties music fans would get it.

As I entered Cornell, WI, I stopped to check the weather. There was an alert on my phone, something about “Quickly finish loading all animals onto the Ark, it is about to get real!” Maybe that wasn’t exactly right, but you get the idea.

Coming into Cornell the first thing one sees is the Stacker. It was used to stack logs for the pulp mills. At 175 feet, (53.3 M) it is an imposing sight. I hangs right over the park tennis courts

I looked around on the Google Map tool and found I had a choice between a state campground 2.5 miles away (4 km), or a motel 4 miles away (7 km). I called ahead and was assured of a room, so I had some lunch and pedaled my wimpy butt to the motel. The forecast was for severe lightning, I’ll take a building over a tent anytime. It turned out to be a wise decision.

A meager 27 miles (43.5 km) for the day. Coward, or wimp?

Just as I rolled the bike into the room, all hell broke loose outside. This was a prime time for a nap, what else was there?

You know you’re in hunting country when the hotel has a sportsman warning sign that says no cleaning of animals will take place in the hotel room. That they had to post a sign tells you something.

After a few hours nap and washing things, it was time for an early evening meal. I rode down the street a few hundred feet and found a nice restaurant.

The staff was friendly and the service, great. I guess it would have to be, I was the only customer there. They had a BBQ Rib special for the evening, all you can eat. I haven’t been eating much meat on this ride so I gave into the temptation and ordered the special for $15.99.

They brought me a nice plate of food, enough so I didn’t even order more. I had a very pleasant chat with the bar keeper and explained what I was doing. A younger member of the waitstaff did most of the serving.

When finished, the “check” was delivered to my table. Why do they call it a “check?” It is a bill. If I took that “check” to the bank, I don’t believe anyone would deposit it. It doesn’t look like a check, it looks like an itemized bill… drink, main dish, taxes and total.

Speaking of the total, the meal, as mentioned earlier, was $15.99 and there was a soft drink, the total should have been around $19.00 (I don’t recall the exact amount). It was a whopping $27.00! The tax was $9.77. I brought the “check” up to the bar to have them look at it. The young person that waited on me explained that the food tax in Wisconsin is 5.5%. Taking the calculator and entering my food costs, the amount was multiplied by 0.55 and ta-dah, the taxes came out to $9.77.

If you’ve been following along on this journey, you’ll recall my tirade about the pennies in Glendive, MT, the incident involving Sister Mary Hang-em-High. It was happening again. At this point, a couple had walked in and sat at the bar–locals. They confirmed the food tax was 5.5% and were astonished that my taxes were so high. It was being calculated at 55% and the person doing the calculating didn’t see the error, even after I pointed it out. “But, but the calculator says…” Is this a result of a failed education system, failed parents, or too many cash registers that total everything up automatically. This restaurant didn’t have the automatic cash registers, they were using a sixties-vintage calculator. Maybe they should consider an abacus. I don’t know the answer, but we’re in trouble.

The weather had cleared for my trip to the restaurant, but predictions were for a very active lightning storm evening. I did go out and set up my ham radio on a swing by the Chippewa River for a while and then it was off to bed.

During the night the river rose another eight inches or so, it certainly has been raining and there is more in store.

Day 2 – Part 2 in New Richmond, Wisconsin

There is a saying that goes, “Some days it just doesn’t pay to get out of bed.” This was one of those days!

The forecast this morning was for “scattered thunderstorms.” I live in Florida, I know what thunderstorms are. The detail that was left out of the forecast was that the storms were all going to be “scattered” right over me.

After leaving the warm, dry comfortable hotel, I rode out into a light mist/rain. Heading north I rode about five miles when the rain turned into a torrential downpour. Then the lightning started and didn’t let up for the rest of the day. I would ride a mile or two, then the lighting would get dangerously close and I would take shelter. The first shelter was in North Hudson township. They had a ball field with covered picnic tables. I managed to stay somewhat dry and spent an hour and a half…waiting. I had been riding on McCutcheon Rd for about four miles. It is unpaved and has lots of loose gravel.

McCutcheon Rd. Loose gravel and mud.

The hills were difficult to climb, my rear wheel would start to spin in the mud and I had to dismount and walk the rest of the hill. Rinse and repeat.

At the shelter (see first photo) I decided to avoid continuing on McCutcheon, it was just too difficult. I headed north when there was a lag in the storm. When the lightning would get too close I would pull into a farmyard and ask if I could sit on the porch. In one case, I was sitting outside a home trying to decide if I should ask. Zap! Bang! Rumble!. A strike hit about 100 feet from where I was stopped. I rushed down the driveway and onto the porch. A terrified group of kids were staring out the window and the woman inside granted me a visit on the porch…no questions asked. This storm was intense, as were the accompanying rains.

After maybe, three-quarters of an hour, I ventured out again. I traveled about a mile and then repeated stopping on porches. Nobody was home, so I just sat there and waited.

One malady of GPS that I discovered, at least on my Android phone, was that raindrops act as finger-touches on the screen. It was nearly impossible to use the GPS, every raindrop would “click” the screen and take me off to some other destination. I finally gave up and just went into “dead reckoning” mode. After a few more hours of misery, I spotted a double rainbow and knew I was near some good luck.

I started out around 10 AM and it was now getting near five in the afternoon. I had gone, maybe, twenty miles east on my trip to the Atlantic and eventually turned north for about ten miles, I needed to find indoor accommodations, no camping tonight. Eventually, I ended up in North Richmond at an Amerivu Inn. The staff was warm, welcoming and treated me like family. Keep in mind, I’m dripping wet, cold and I’m certain quite a sight. No matter, they gave me a room that I could roll my bicycle to (right through the main lobby) and encouraged me to make myself at home. I was meeting Wisconsin hospitality. If you’re on a bicycle ride in North Richmond, I highly recommend this hotel.

When I arrived in the hotel room, I connected the computer and the first thing I saw on the screen was:

I’m in St. Croix County, and I can vouch for the warning.

In all, I spent about eight hours riding in cold rain, wind, and huge lightning. After a hot shower, I am ready for bed. Good night to all. Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be much better, it couldn’t be worse!

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