I managed 65 miles (105 km) today. I love distance in kilometers, it sounds like you’ve accomplished more. It feels better to see the odometer actually clicking up more often too.
So far, for the week, the hotels have been really nice about me bringing the bicycle into the room. They even go out of their way to arrange things so I can either be on the first floor or very near an elevator. I’ve been a real wimp this week, no camping at all.
I’m currently in Antigo, Wisconsin. That puts me about 125 miles (201 km) from Manitowoc, WI where the S. S. Badger sails to Michigan. The Badger is a ferry that costs $6.00 for the bicycle and $52 for me. I will get across to Michigan without pedaling 90 miles (145 km). I must be getting old, I’m looking forward to it.
I won’t be on my ham radio for the next few nights, I’ll be too tired and working too hard to make the ferry. Look for me from MI.
Today I was riding through some deep woods. Since it was the perfect country to site bears, I kept an eye out for them as I rode along. At one point, a young bear, maybe a two-year-old, ran across the road in front of me, about a quarter-mile ahead. It was slightly downhill so I didn’t linger to investigate. I was carrying a fresh banana, that may have been too much of a temptation.
Throughout the ride, I have been seeing hordes of wild turkeys everywhere. After the first bear sighting, I saw another bear trying to chase after a turkey, but the bird was sly and quick and easily got away. I didn’t think a bear would chase a turkey but they are opportunists and I suppose just about anything is fair game. At least the bear was distracted by the bird and ignored me.
My front derailleur (the front shifter on a multi-speed bicycle) is giving me trouble. On the really steep hill climbs it is resisting shifting into the lowest gear (known as the “small ring”). At home, it would be a simple replacement, but out here on the road, I’ll just find a bike shop to do the work. I’ve temporarily fixed it with a small elastic Bunji cord.
In all, the bike has been performing very well. It should, it is built for this sort of riding. I purchased it used from a fellow hiker and he had already used it to ride coast-to-coast before me.
Tomorrow is supposed to be nice. In the morning it will be in the mid-40’s °F (4.5 °C) and is supposed to warm up to 70°F. It was supposed to be that warm today but never made it. I rode most of the day with a jacket and long-fingered gloves.
Well, it is off to bed, I need to let the motor rest.
As Willie Nelson sang, “I’m on the road again…” After driving 1600 miles, from Sarasota, Florida, to Minneapolis, Minnesota, it was nice to drop off the rental van and be back on the bicycle.
As planned, I set out yesterday morning, 23 August. The weather was clear and sunny, as was my disposition. The fully packed bike weighed in around 85 pounds (38.5 kg), which is what it weighed on part one of this trip. At home I had weighed all of the ham radio and computer stuff and, to my surprise, it all came in at 16 pounds (7.2 kg). I could jettison some of it, but it is the one luxury I’m going to carry. It isn’t so much the equipment that is that heavy, it is the batteries and chargers that weigh things down.
The first problem I encountered on the ride was the GPS. The new holder I mounted on the bike for the cell phone was useless. It has a clear plastic cover that reflects so much sunlight the phone face is impossible to see. Hearing the GPS voice commands can be a challenge if large, noisy, trucks are passing. I’ll have to come up with a better mount.
About a mile from the airport I hit a spot where the GPS became very confused. First, it insisted that I go north on a road that I just knew wasn’t correct. Then, it insisted I go south. It pointed to an access ramp to a highway and wanted me to go up the ramp about fifty feet, then ride in a ten-foot circle for, get this, two and one-half hours! After riding in a circle I would arrive at my destination. Yeah, sure. I gave up on it and went with my instincts. After about a mile the GPS recovered and started functioning again. Weird. Russian hackers?
Most of the day’s ride was nice and at least two-thirds were on bike paths and trails. At one point I encountered a sign that said “Trail closed” with no indication of an alternate route. I rode on and did finally see a detour sign. The GPS didn’t know about it, so I figured I might be on my own again.
Eventually, I came to Stillwater, MN. This was another of these towns that had a much different past, as evidenced by the old brick mill building and a port area along the river. Whatever commerce it had engaged in in days gone by was now history. The town was smart enough to survive by doing what other towns have done and gone “artsy.” It now has numerous cafes, museums, various tourist shops, riverboats, and tours. It was a charming transition.
When I arrived in town I tied my bike to a bike rack. I struck up a conversation with a couple with their bikes. I asked about the restaurant across the way and I could tell by their body language that they were not too enthused. The place looked nice and had American and Irish flags hanging about. It looked expensive, with a nice outdoor table area. A hefty wind was blowing, so outdoors dining was questionable anyway.
The couple suggested that I check out LoLo, a dining establishment just up the street. LoLo translates to “Locally Owned, Locally Operated.” It sounded like my kind of place. Upon their advice, I went down there and was pleased. It was a very friendly and bustling place. They had all sorts of unusual things on the menu. I opted for a Cuban Taco and enjoyed it. Thank you, my bicycle friends.
Leaving Stillwater, I headed south along the St. Croix River, on the Minnesota bank. There is a brand new bridge across the river to Wisconsin. It is a massive affair, at least a mile long, but they did consider bicycle/pedestrian traffic and I was able to travel across in complete safety. The bike path continues for quite a distance on the Wisconsin side, and the GPS didn’t appear to be fully updated. When I arrived at the first intersection I was looking to go south on Rt. 35, but couldn’t find it, so I went right on Rt. E. Yes, “E,” there are many roads here that are just designated with a single letter. I should have gone left.
After traveling for a few miles a fellow bicyclist, by the name of Pat, stopped to chat with me. He advised that I backtrack and pick up Rt. V and it would take me to Rt. 35. He suggested that I could continue on E, but it would be about 15 more miles and I didn’t want to chance riding in the dark on strange roads.
I found my way to Hudson, WI and happily got a room at a Comfort Suite, where I am currently writing this. I had hoped to set up my amateur radio station tonight and see whom I could contact, but this 71-year-old body decided sleep would be more welcome. Maybe tonight? (I’m writing this on day two of the ride.)
This morning it is overcast, raining and not very inviting. The temperature is 71 degrees F, and it says it feels like 64. I’m hoping the rain will die down and I will get underway by around 11 AM. It is supposed to clear late in the day and tomorrow is supposed to be nice. We’ll see.
For all my single lady friends, you’d be surprised at what you can buy in Wisconsin. It is a little hard to read, but the sign reads: “Man Sale.” I’ve seen lots of topless bars along the way, but this was new. Must be low budget judging by the sign quality. Then my nose told me this might be a manure sale. Oh well.
A vehicle is has been rented and the bike tires are replaced—this trip is going to happen. Jane returns home from being up north on Sunday and we need some time together, so I’ve delayed leaving by another day. I should be riding on Thursday, 23 August, 2018.
I’ve checked out the tent, the cold weather gear, new riding shoes, the new rear panniers and the ham radio station and everything is as ready as it can be. I’ll start out a bit slowly because I am about five pounds (two kg+) over what I like to be.
The good news is the terrain, at least until I reach Vermont, should be reasonably flat. Vermont, NH, and MA are at the right side of the map:
The bike weighs about the same as before, around 85 pounds (39 kg), fully loaded. By the time I hit Vermont, I should be back in shape for those climbs. My daughter, Áine, warned me that the biggest climbs of the entire trip, from Oregon to Massachusetts are in Vermont. Who knew? One would think the Rockies would be the issue. She accomplished this ride just after graduating from high school. She makes me feel like a wimp.
As usual, I will operate the ham radio station in the evenings, when camped. I also get on the air when staying at hotels by going out to nearby parks and setting up at picnic tables or the like. Sometimes hotels have a convenient place to do so. If I have WiFi, I will send out a Tweet from @K1YPP to let the ham radio world know where to find me.
I recall one time in Vermont, I was out in the back of the hostel on a deck. I had the radio on, talking with a fellow in Pennsylvania. I was wearing headphones and it was very dark. It was then I realized that I was sitting right next to the gas grill that had been used to cook salmon and steaks just a few hours earlier. I was deep in bear country. Maybe that wasn’t such a good idea.
Follow along and let’s see where this next adventure leads.
It looks like, if things go well, I could be on the road again around the 8th of August, 2018. The bike is almost ready, I just need to change the tires, the replacements have arrived. The following photo is a page from AAA magazine, they came and rescued me when I crashed in Minnesota.
The Florida weather has been terribly hot this summer so most of my riding has been around midnight. In the summer there is practically zero traffic at that hour and I don’t have to suffer the sun’s intense rays. In a twenty-mile ride I may see only two cars and one a police car.
My ham radio friends will be interested to know that I will have my radio station with me. I’ve been exercising it lately and everything seems to be in good working order. Radio conditions are not great, but I have to take what nature throws at me.
Anyway, just wanted to bring things up to date. I will be starting around Stacy, MN, then over to WI, then the ferry across Lake Michigan, MI, up into Canada, dropping down to Buffalo, NY, then across NY, into VT, NH and at long last MA and onto Newburyport, MA. Stay tuned.